TREND | The Shows That Give The Girls Hell - The Collections We are Looking Forward to from Spring 2026

This is a comprehensive list of the most exciting collections from the Spring 2026 shows - not in any particular order. These are the brands one should look to when considering new pieces to add into their wardrobe or simply look to for inspiration and direction when shopping for comparable products - these are your North Star. This is not a suggested shopping list rather investment recommendations for those who see their attire as an extension of themselves that they continue to slowly build upon and find value in longevity. For fashion retail the new years does not start January 1st, technically the fashion new year starts the first week of February when all the newness shown at the tail end of the year before is delivered to stores and placed on shelfs, racks, and has gone live on all the e-commerce shops - Happy New Year. 

Thom Browne 

I use to turn my nose up to Thom Browne solely because it was uniform dressing. 

Growing up I attended a charter school from kindergarten to high school and at each milestone the uniform changed. Starting in kindergarten till about the seventh grade I wore black dress shoes, knee high socks, a skirt, white dress shirt, a tie, and a cardigan sweater. When I transited into the eighth grade which was located within the high school building the dress coded evolved into a more formal attire a (sometimes ill fitted) blazer, skirt, pantyhose or knee high socks, black dress shoes, a knitted vest, white dress shirt, and tie. 

At the time I absolutely despised being forced to wear the same clothes day in and day out - looking like everyone else. My child's mind did not understand nor was it explained to me the logic, function, and the importance the uniform served. The uniform was a tool used to alleviate varies life stresses - from the family angle it reduced the cost the household would need to invest in clothing children not just for one school year but throughout the span of the child's (or children) life in primary and secondary schooling. The uniform also served, most importantly in my opinion, as a equalizer among students - everyone was dressed the same, it took some attention off the individual's appearance and placed more focus on the substance of the person, and it also made the varies socioeconomic classes among the students less noticeable which can be a source of ridicule among children. 

When I was child I was absolutely fascinated by clothes I consumed a lot of television growing up: MTV Jamz, 106 & Park, Zoey 101, Taina, Unfabulous and cartoons like As Told by Ginger. Later I was obsessed with reality shows like The Real World, Laguna Beach, The Hills, and Baldwin Hills. I wanted to express myself in my unique way like the characters and people I watched on television.

One of my first jobs in life at 16 years old I was hired at American Apparel in the Cherry Hill Mall in New Jersey. I had always loved visiting the mall and shopping centers - Moorestown Mall , Deptford Mall, the now closed Pennsauken Mart, and I spent a great deal of time at the Franklin Mills Mall located in Philadelphia PA where my father worked as a maintenance custodian - with my family and found it to be such a magical and exciting place I vividly remember thinking to myself "I wish I lived here!" Little did I know my wish would be answered and during the period I worked in the mall I was swimming in so much clothes my mother's partner built me an additional shelf to store the growing collection I was amassing. 

As I seldomly look back I can appreciate that time living in youthful excess. 

Now as I aspire to attain a higher level of enlightenment I prefer not to think so hard and long about clothes. I also do not feel the need to buy and hoard them. I am no longer fascinated by clothes I think in part due to maturing and being connected to a internal sense of self. 

As humans we must continue to grow and evolve challenging old ways of thinking as is dictated by natural law because if we do not take those proactive measures we will succumb to the change brought about by external forces out of our control. A design business is similar in that in order to stay relevant (and profitable) it must be mindful of shifts in the market - demographics shifts, political and social value changes, purchase behavior, and the increase use of the Internet and World Wide Web. Which brings me to Thom Browne's Spring 2026 collection and the idea of the "evolving uniform." 

In similar fashion to previous shows which infuses theatrics and a great deal of (over) production Thom Browne reinterpreted the brand codes - this season the collection was presented within the context of a outer space theme. Still, when you think of a uniform you do not necessarily change the uniform instead Browne focused on shape, proportion, and fabrics. In an pre show interview with Vogue Browne offered "I knew I wanted to develop a new shape. Will it feel different when you wear it? It does, yes. and then the proportion of the skirts, pleated, low slung above the knee...it feels very beautiful, and young." 

I think once the eccentricity is peeled away we do get to a core that is very beautiful and classic. The essence of the collection is (season after season) grounded in quality and durability - unchanged, while also finding relevant and interesting way to communicate to the market . It does not really require bells and whistles (or a "alien" head) or a relentless need to connect to the past in order to justified its being.  

Vetements 

I have adored Vetements literally from day one. 

As someone who was born in the '90s and spent their childhood during the early aughts Vetements sort of encapsulate those years in clothes but with an Eastern Europe sensibility. 

In an interview with Charlie Rose and Tom Ford the designer is asked from which historic period does he feel most comfortable pulling inspiration from which he shared the '60s and the '70s. Ford, an astute observer of all facets of life in my opinion, also goes on to offer why he and people in general may be incline to reference the time they were initially born and raised from which their taste into adulthood is established "... I think really most people are influence throughout their life by their very first imagines of beauty. So as a child - I was born in the '60s. And the '60s and the '70s were when I first started seeing women I thought "Wow she looks amazing or woah this is a great apartment or this is a really beautiful table or God look at that car." And those images stick with you they form the bases of your taste...""

I am prone to agree with Tom Ford as it relates to why I feel a similar connection to Vetements. Its both the aesthetic and the presentation - the world created (or rather recreated) that I feel resonated with the style I grew up admiring: oversized baggie hip hop and skateboard culture, '90s minimalist and grunge, and Internet and web culture. 

What I like about Vetements is that regardless of season there is a consistent look to the collections. For example, once Jonathan Anderson left Loewe I knew I would never get that type of product from the brand again - the same with Demna leaving Balenciaga. I knew once these individuals left these companies the product would also lose their unique eye and touch. And although the brother duo - Demna and Guram Gvasalia - has been separated for a few seasons the same spirit is consistent and strong with Guram at the creative helm of Vetements.

I watched the Spring 2026 show on Youtube although the strobe lights were distracting I though the soundtrack of the dogs breaking was pretty cool. 

Some of my favorite looks was the the opening swastika sign t-shirt - because fuck the Nazis. Currently I am more into to the mens t-shirt which would fit me oversized. I think oversized clothes on women is really quiet elegant and soft. I also loved the mens bomber with that very voluminous shape I think  its such a beautiful silhouette especially on women. I loved Winne Harlow in that beautiful polkadot dress. The oversized cargos with the fitted polo shirts and denim high waist flared skirt were all very important I especially loved the back detail of the skirt. And lastly, I also adored the micro mini ballet dress in the white color way I think that paired with black pantyhose, Repetto ballet flats, and the mens bomber would be absolutely breath taking. 

Martine Rose

I have read through a few interviews with designer Martine Rose where describes herself as menswear designer. However,  as I watched the Spring 2026 show I think the womenswear was way stronger and relevant. 

Speaking only of the American market in relation to menswear it is a conservative market and can be tricky as sometimes fashion can straddle the fence between flamboyant and gimmicky. Do young men in America - those 18-40 years old, who live in suburban and urban areas, who may or may not have a college degree but are well educated, and are both white and blue collar workers - enjoy and consume fashion? Yes, and they are active participants. 

However, sometimes fashion when it is presented in traditional formats like fashion shows or magazines can be a bit over the top and could unfortunately turn him off entirely. For the American market what entices him is a heighten sense of reality. If he is unable to afford the entire dream world there is a possibility he would invest in a small pieces of it - there is a delicate balance designers should be aware of. When this segment does seek to invest in fashion items with respect to their lifestyle and discretionary income he more than his female counterpart is less likely to splurge on a trendy item. On the contrary he would invest in a quality designer t-shirt which may or may not have a logo to easily identify the brand. 

For the Spring 2026 menswear collection the high point was really the style direction. I adored the two poncho looks - one black leather poncho over a suit and the other a more sport iterations over a tracksuit I also really liked the tight fitted baseball cap and brown paper bag paired with this look. There was also a long parka style jacket, cinched waist,  paired with leather jeans and a fitted baseball cap I thought was cool - initially I was going to suggest jeans rather than the leather pants but on second thought the leather kind of elevates the look. And probably most important were the mens sneakers I mean Martin Rose has such AMAZING taste when it comes to sneakers. 

For women's I loved the oversized t-shirt and jersey paired with the more feminine mini ruffled skirts and white pumps - I've been into white pumps for the last two years I especially like when they look a bit lived in. I also thought the sneaker style heels were amazing. 

Burberry

I LOVED  Burberry's Spring 2026 collection by Daniel Lee who has done such an amazing job teaching an old dog new tricks. I mean I really did enjoy the Riccardo Tisci era of Burberry but Lee's sensibility seems to me to be a more natural fit.  

The overall collection remembered me of the more narrow silhouette from the early 2000s. As I watched the fashion show the way the clothes moved give a "lived in" feel rather than freshly manufactured samples. I loved the world created throughout these 57 looks there is not much (if any) editing I can imagine would be needed to produce the collection for market. I also think Lee has continued to move the brand forward in a relevant manner while reimagining in authentic ways the brand codes - trenches and the checkered print pattern. From a commercial perspective I think there is something for everyone to build very unique assortments while still maintaining the Burberry feel. 

For menswear, think back to Hedi Slimane's tenure as creative director for Dior Homme circa 2000 to 2007 that was the spirit. The silhouette was fitted (not tight) and the proportions had an natural ease - as though models could have walked straight off the runway and into the nearest subway station in New York City. In an interview with Women's Wear Daily Lee discusses the direction he took for the season "Nothing's new in fashion but, as designers, we're trained to oversize" the clothing, "It's actually harder to do a "neater" thing, because as soon as you see a model walking in something smaller it has less impact. So we challenged ourselves to try and celebrate a different silhouette." I think this collection had so much of an impact and stood out to me due to the fact that the proportions were not exaggerated - although I do prefer a baggie jean on men.   

Womenswear I absolutely loved the mid-thigh length of the outerwear and dresses - it was so refreshing. I thought the eyewear collection was strong especially on look 5 paired the with the mini denim waxed jacket and skinny blue scarf.  I also really loved the brown pinstriped three-piece suit. Shoes for both mens and women is a area I would like to see some improvement in style and range. 

Celine

Celine's Spring 2026 collection was all hits no misses - the fashion show was so good it made me anxious watching (lol). I absolute love this transition from Hedi Slimane to Michael Rider - Rider who previously spent time at Ralph Lauren and Celine during the reign of Phoebe Philo now returns as creative director of the house. And although his predecessors Hedi Slimane and Phoebe Philo are household designer names Michael Rider has truthfully begin to created a unique design language of his own. 

The collection is the perfect balance of American sportswear meets Parisian sensibility. The most modern, relevant, and exciting Parisian fashion house of the moment. I also love the idea of building a wardrobe and the strong connection between this collection and Resort 2026.  

The womenswear collection was so dynamic in that it did not place her in a box of either streetwear or formal wear it provided solutions to both. I also loved the harmony between sensuality and modesty - just enough skin is shown that leaves the imagination wondering. The assortment provided a suggestions for work attire, after work dinner or drinks, and weekend day shopping or bunch in Brooklyn.

For beauty, I loved the soft makeup and models in cornrow braids. There is something very elegant and eternal when Black women have their hair neatly braided we are able to see the full beauty of her face, skin, and bone structure. I think for a brand like Celine which is owned by LVMH to broaden the scope of Black women featured on its Parisian catwalks supports in moving society closer to accepting wider definition of the word beauty. Fashion Week is a very important time during the year for fashion and accessories goods companies it drives a lot of views and traffic to the brands various platforms. And as I've mentioned in previous post as the demographic shift throughout the world so would consumer bases. And consumers want to see themselves reflected in the product they invest in. I think it is important for European fashion companies like a LVMH, Kering, or Chanel (with very larger marketing and advertising budgets) to continue reflect theses changes in an sincere manner in all facets of its business. 

 I am looking forward to Michael Rider continuing on building on this very strong foundation he has started with Celine. 

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